The grapes for this wine come from the Talc Hill Vineyard in Gumeracha, which was planted in the late 1990s by Nebbiolo guru Peter Godden. This really is a rosé for any time of year, with characteristic florals and crunchy red fruit amplified by a fresh backbone of acidity and framed with a firmness of tannin and some chewy texture, which adds seriousness and complexity to the wine. Rhubarb, rosehip and chalk define the flavours.

Matt Large is a busy man. His winemaking has taken him from Victoria to Barolo, and more recently to the Adelaide Hills, working with Shaw & Smith until this year - he now focusses solely on his own endeavour Praeter. And a worthy endeavour it appears to be! Praeter was started in 2018 after his first vintage working in Barolo the year prior. It was born from a desire to explore and attempt to understand Nebbiolo in Australia’s soil and climate, but since Praeter’s establishment it has developed into a lens through which Matt has been able to select and celebrate choice parcels of fruit from special vineyards in both Australia and Italy; always putting sensitivity and quality at the fore. Matt is a lover of Italian wine - so much a lover, that he travels there every year to make wine with Piedmont winery Luigi Oddero. Many consider the Adelaide Hills to be one of the best places in Australia to grow Nebbiolo, and Matt agrees. He now makes wines from the Hills and from Barolo, and each year sees more tinkering and experimentation in a quest to improve. This is a label well worth looking out for.